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婺源寻访徽菜

发布时间:2017-09-25 08:24:05  作者:王国红  来源:黄山日报  点击数:载入中…

  □ 王国红

  徽菜的最大特点就是融徽州文化、徽商与徽菜制作于一体。俗话说,窥一斑而见全豹。通过品尝徽菜美味佳肴,不仅能领略到徽州的自然风貌、土特产品、风情人物,还能从中品读灿烂的徽州文化以及徽州人经商的艰难创业史。人们常说:无梦到徽州。那是因为徽州太美,美得叫你魂牵梦萦!真的,就连品尝徽州的土菜,也会让你吃出文化、吃出品位、吃出无尽的遐想来。

  婺源古属徽州,历史上它两进两出徽州版图。一千多年的血肉联系,孕育了一脉相承的民风民俗、文化背景。因其“出家”最早,让人多了几分思念。段莘蹄包、粉蒸菜、荷包红鱼等,是婺源的传统名菜。它们为何出名?我们决定一起去探个究竟。

  段莘蹄包为段莘人餐桌上的美食代表之作。二十多年前,一位叫江社庆的厨师在段莘蹄包传统制作技艺的基础上,采用段莘的农家生态肉为原料,用酱油或糖稀调色,用香菇或枸杞点缀,经过清洗、去毛、去膘、清炖、去汤、上色、冷却、续蒸、上盐等一系列严格的工序制作而成,味正飘香,肉嫩皮酥,油而不腻,其富含的胶原蛋白还有助于美容。婺源人钟情于蒸菜。粉蒸鱼和干鱼食材均採用清凉的段莘水库所产的肉嫩味鲜的鱼,用当地的柽子油(山茶油)烧制。不同的是,粉蒸鱼原料为草鱼,采用糯米粉粉蒸,用鱼腥草垫在碟子下面,有去腥增鲜的作用。粉蒸鱼不但清淡鲜香,而且保持了鱼的原味和营养。干鱼则是把鱼经烘焙干制,然后选用山里的红辣椒清蒸而成。炒番薯梗也是婺源地道的农家菜,撕去番薯梗的表皮,下锅清炒,佐以酸辣椒和蒜蓉,口感清脆,蒜香爽口,是一道解腻良菜。一方山水养一方人。都说婺源山里的女人既长得水灵,又有股子泼辣劲,应该说,与这些美食和美景是分不开的。

  著名的婺源“四色”特产之一的荷包红鱼,与明朝一位尚书有千丝万缕的关系。据《明史》记载,余懋衡,婺源沱川理坑人,是明朝万历二十年(西元一五九二年)进士,天启年间,授南京吏部尚书。相传,余懋衡因“代天巡狩”有功,告老还乡时,神宗嘉赏了几尾养在深宫御花池中的红色鲤鱼,这种鱼集食用与观赏于一体,头小尾短,背高腹圆,通体橙红鲜艳,形似荷包,可清蒸可红烧,肉质细嫩。清代汪绂在《医林纂要探源》一书中称其“安妊孕、好颜色、止咳逆、疗脚气、消水肿、治黄疸”,同时还有健脾养肺、平肝补心、滋阴养阳等保健功能。一九八五年,钓鱼台国宾馆将荷包红鱼列入国宴;一九九四年被选为江西九运会吉祥物,赐名“跃跃”。

  唐代陆羽在《茶经》中指出,用来泡茶的水,以山泉水最佳。沱川山多田少,溪涧山泉清冽甘甜,以此水为原料,做出的豆腐也属极品。沱川豆腐品种繁多,有豆腐角、热涮豆腐、五香豆乾、豆腐皮……然而,最为奇特的是,那如婴儿肌肤般细腻润滑的豆腐,还能依照传统的粉蒸烹饪技术进行深加工:将豆腐沾上薄薄的一层混有少量乾紫苏末的米粉,平铺在碟子中,把新鲜紫苏、红椒、腊肉、蒜蓉和生姜切成末,加上适量米粉和食盐搅拌,均匀地撒在豆腐上,入锅蒸熟,最后浇上熟油。豆腐既嫩又韧,又有腊味,还有紫苏的增香提味。

  在婺源特色菜肴里,似乎都与米粉结下了不解之缘,“无荤不蒸,无素不糊”,除蒸菜之外,糊菜也是婺源菜肴的一大特色。如糊南瓜、糊豆腐、糊匏瓜……在喜宴上,不论是糊豆腐,还是糊豆芽,都是一道必不可少的家乡菜。糊豆腐,就是将豆腐切成丁,倒进放有高汤的热锅里,浇上熟猪油,放上肉蓉、香菇末、菊花菜,加适量的食盐等各种调味料,然后用湿淀粉不停地搅拌,装盘,浇上香油,撒些胡椒粉和葱花即成。而今,寓意“一清二白”的糊豆腐成为当地酒席上的第一道菜肴,也是来婺源的游人非尝不可的一道特色菜。

  除了糊菜,婺源的“蒸茄盂”,也是一道农家美食。茄子的维生素P含量很高,能延缓衰老,有益心血管。婺源人称茄子为落苏,因此这道菜叫“蒸落苏盂”。首先选取几只大小相同的球状紫色茄子,将茄子对半剖开,然后在背部刻下一道道的花刀,将肉丁(最好用腊肉丁)、紫苏、辣椒、蒜蓉、姜末、盐等同米粉搅拌,塞入刀痕内,上箅蒸熟,装盘时浇上油,茄子的清香、腊肉的熏香及菜油的芳香让人垂涎欲滴。婺源的豆腐泡,数浙源、沱川一带最为有名。浙源豆腐角,表皮炸至金黄,里面是水嫩的豆腐,外酥里嫩,用筒骨炖浙源豆腐角,是浙源人喜宴上的一道传统菜肴。将三角形的浙源豆腐角切开,放进筒骨汤中一道炖熟,使骨汤渗透进豆腐角而受味,汤鲜味美,加之香菜的调味,令人齿颊留香。

  看来,东奔西走,吃遍九州,真有想头,还是徽州!

【编辑:万俊奇】
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